Coat.



c. D? lomo. COAT. APPLIS-ANON lFILED JULYSI. 19H..`

annees] To all 'ze/tom itmay concer/z: y

Be it known that I, CimamnNo-Diomo, a subject of the Kingof Italy, residing at Cincinnati,ii1` the county of Hamilton and State of Ohio, have 'invented certain new and iisefulflmprovemcnts in Coats, of which the following isa specification.`

.better `and. more permanent fit `in such col- "lars,fto saveflabor in attaining that result, and to dispose of the material in the collar so that it may he joined to theother parts ofthe coatto better advantage, both as to ,structure and ,appefaiance, especially 'where `the material is cloth having a marked 'pattern, such as striped c loth.

construction and` arrangement as will hereinat'ter be more `fully described and claimed: ln" the djawingszvy Figure lis a detail of `the outer piece of the 'collar as it is originally out in" making upla collaraccording to myinvention;` Fig@ is adetail ofthe inner this piece beingshown as itis originally cut; Fig. 3 shows the two .pieces sewed together; Fig. 4 showsnthesepieccs opened out and the yseafm pressedgu-Fig..shows the pieces thus ing invplace, ready to fold the 'sewed-to- `ther'pieces.thereover; Fig. 6 shows'these seived-together pieces'thus folded over the :padding andstifenlg; Fig. 7 shows the in-A terior ofthe topof` afjcoat with my improved collar in' place there '1; Fig.` 8 is a sideA view of-Qthe coat shown iii- Fig. 7; Fig. 9 is a rear .view (if-said* coat; andlfig. 10 is a front view of said' coat i Usually.` in the construction of lay-down collars for menls and ladies coats andsimi lar garments.I theeu-tire stand or inner portion-as well as the leaf or outer portion has been formedot` `1ne.piece of material.` these being folded aloifigfa line` termed the breakiof the collar and .thevinner or partsfof the coat while the outer or ,leaf- `portion is closed with thefstifening and padding. which latter generally becomes the under side of such a lay-down collar on a coat. y In order to cause a `and shoulders of the wearerit isnecessary, iiiwforming a collarA of one piece,-to laterally stretch both the -stand and leaf in their Specification of 4Letters. Patent.

Application filed July'31, 1914. Serial No. 854,384.

` My invention relatesto lay-down collars (folgarmentsg andathe oh3ect is to secure a My invention cons1sts in the details of,

piece which 'y isincorporated in the collar,`

wed togetherjwith the padding and stillen-` stand portion heiligl sewed` to the inner` collar to" fit the neck UNITED STATES PATENT o EEIoE.

Patented Aprlel, 1916.v

lower portions, thus distorting the texture ofthe cloth, and, if it is a patterned fabric,

disarranging the pattern thereof.` Furthermore, with any `except the limsicst material, itis impossible to provide enough stretching of these parts to impart .the proper shape; and such kstretching as is provided results in a loss of the proper shape due to rearrangement of the' cloth fibers, this especially .being manifested by a wrinkling of the outer part of the collar and a recession of the collar hack from the neck :f the wearer. other garments heretofore constructed with Furthermore, with all coats or.

lay-down collars andlapels, there isl a lack 4of continuity of direction of weave and pattern from the leaf of the collar to the lapel which is sewed thereto, or, which, in shawl" collars 1s continuous therewith, owlng to the peculiar manner 1n which the yonepiece collar must be cut from the cloth as related to the manner in which the lapel and ,collar arc continuous, the: necessary stretching and distortion has been even more excessive. m

I `overcome all of the above diiiiculties,

`not only by making upa structure tofoq'm the"stand and leaf portions of the collar by ]o1nmg two pieces 1 and 2, but by so cor` aectl'y shaping each of these pieces withrespectto the other that, when they Aare folded -or provided with the brealn they automatically,correctly dispose themselves to form a collar which will at `once clixjig closely 4ing the two parts 1 and 2, and in addition cuttingtheui with proper regard to the direction of weave of the cloth and ofthe patpart must be cutv from the cloth. If lapels -V tern ofthe cloth. when the cloth has a pat-V tern, I am enabled to preserve theV correbeen attained, and also to make the weave and the pattern. if there is any, of the leaf' portion the` collar continuous in direction with that of the lapel at each side, as is best seen in Figs. 8 and 1 0,

. erepresented in the drawing a 1o-'in matching the patterns i o open of the collarand e'. tion of which goes to Y edge 3 approxi-mating an rlarge radius, while its inner edgefc'omprises terminal por;

atfr'ight angles to alinedian i radial line of f i'vhichfit had 'as indicatedin Fig. 1,'.asWill Foi the purpose of most clearly illustrating the above advantages oflmy invention and of making it possible to more readily note the manner of disposing of the ma;

terial from the time it is out 'iintiliit isin.-

vcorporated in the finished garments I, have material ot a' Finaiked stripedpattern. Suohillustration also readily makes manifest the advantages ot the diiterent y ypieces asaboive alluded Ito;vv The superiority oi" itting'qualities of my c( zif-.truction is bestappre T' inspection of agarment corporated and with the garment upon lthe Weaiier. Practically all illustrationsv of 'clothing indicate afpertect fit of the `garment around vthe neck and shoulders, but,` as is *swell known to practical.tailors` suchaper- 2o feet* ,tit is very l rarely attained. and is lattained iii greater or less perfection onlyxbv theeXpend-itureot -a great deal of labor in bushelingf after this part of the garmentis otherwise completed. The vain attempts to stretch the fabric in the lower-'parts of the .standy and leaf portions ot' the collar iittingefYect Jtrequen'tly damaging the #fabric in .to secure the desired result 1n tearing or these regions, and

pieces of fabric. Those skilled'infthe art welly know that the Yfitting of lay-downlfcolj,

lars ona coat or similar garnentmay frequei'itly require thelabor'of a tailor'ifor several hours.

i By the use of my. inventiom'fthe time otv cutting, fitting, and constructingg a collar for La crat orsiniilar garment isredu'ced to an average of one-halfliouij, and the tailor and.I

L0 kwearer are assured thatthe'collar will reina-in as litted regardless of th'kin'd'otcloth The larger outer piece l, the major por 4-5leafl vportion off'tlie collar, has its outer flared 'inits v*tions l almost the are which the outer edge approximates', andaJ median f proA imating an arc ofprelatively small radius. .The pieceiscut Withthef Weave, and-,

ifanv, thepattern-,running substantially parallel with the median radial line of the i are, as is indicated by the stripes inFig. 1.'

' The other piece? is substantially a' segment-4 vWith one edge 6 approximating, iinyaroofsuch, vradius 'that' when the other *edge* 7,-v which is generally substantially straight, is'

brought along the part, 5 of the edge of the other'part 1 and the tivo pieces seWed-to?` gether as shown in Fig. 3, and then flattened out, as shown in louter piece 1,'so that;

yimproved collar ciated upon actuall in which it is ingether as' usual,

necessitatingthe ripping' `the insertion ofr new form the" outside or" arc of relatively terminal parts,v

` Also tliecu'rved edge-,5

portion 5apf inaterialfiofff curvei beC'onies,tl`ie :lower edge 4of, the Aleaf of the collar, which imiist conform nicely to the leaf-portion of the collar lwill 'have` practi- *eally the same directionin the back of the collar as do 4the stripes Aoffthe back 14:- voi Fig. 4, with the. seam f8.' 5 still substantially straight,j-the parts It ofv tangent to the edge 6 vof the segmental piece with said rsegmental#piece held fiat.' Another detail which contributes to this resultis the formation'of the/segmental piece Qas Well asl the aied terminali parts of the 'when the'A two pieces are sewed togetheras beforel described!` the two-piecev 'structurennay be laid out as shown in Figi.'5,?-ivithfthe edge' 3, the iniddle and major partfof 'wl'iicli-originally ap# proxiinated an aro df considerable radius, now approximates a straight line, While the edges 6 and l, fcollectively,

. are; the material, however, adJacent all of these edges, being somewhat buckled and v l onlyl i'ouglilyapproaching vthe kdisposition describechand. as, clearly shown in Fig. 5. With thei structure thus disposed,the padding' 9i andstiiteningl, cutand Vsewed to-v with .theiif p break ll approximate an formed in them, have their substantially straight lower: edges 12 andfl laid along 'slightly 'inside .the novi approximately straight edge Bof the two-piece outer structure. j Then, when4 the part y,of the ,outer y,structure uncovered yby this padding and ,"stifi'ening structure isy folded inward over the padding and fstili'eiiing" structure?, as shown in Fig.t6, and the aggregate structurel .curved around the neck and shoulders, all` of Ithe. buckling and wrinkling :of both oil pear. The collar is then sewed into the ga-ry ment inthe. usual mannengas indicated in, Figs. 7 tof 10, inclusive,` andtliis will b'e` accomplished. withoutfstretching or distort,-y

ing any the parts and without the necessits of any :attention to. suoli adjustment.

This 'is manifest vin the completed 'garment byl actual, demonstration; andlas was indithe appearance of the l 'segmental piece-2f, which practically retains l and 2 willimniediately disant` '10, wherezthis' edge A7 curves around the neck but' does not curveupward for downward.' `'ofthe piece 1 .Will

closelyapproximate Iits-:original conditiony also the curvedv edge 3, which now `has beenv Y 4loi-ought'-ar'ou'nd. under .the edge l2 of the paddingr land. sti il'eningstructure, so that the the piece lfna'djacent to this On account of the alnidsttotal vabsence otl i fdistortion .of tliefabric, the stripes 'of thel .lfli

of h mandi islplaeell ilongthe oncaye 'partei' the inner edge wdfjthe J Quite piede;` saidpiecs l being n l seemed togetheifalofnfg;` said edges thus placed piece edges beinglsilbstfanti l rwth` `when` tliusw semned ltogetheij," the n pol-ltiQmsaid omer eing` cu with" "an "outer `edge vegomiezi k ofrtfheiepllzinfollowingalcui'ivedfline f .being cut from a patterned fabric with the the lapels substantially alined and continugenelll dirctiln ofdthe lpttelrrli elenients ous in direction.

para e Witi t e me ian ra ia ine o the 7 curved edges, said back being of patterned CHERUBINO D IQRIO' 5 fabric with the pattern elements running Witnesses:

parallel with the median line of the collar, JAMES' N. RAMSEY,

with the pattern elements of this piece and CLARENCE PERDEW. 

